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1960s in fashion
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{{short description|Costume and fashion in the 1960s}}File:Londons Carnaby Street, 1966.jpg|right|thumb|"Swinging London" fashions on Carnaby Street, 1966. The National Archives (United Kingdom)The National Archives (United Kingdom)File:People on the steps of Konserthuset, Stockholm (1965).jpg|thumb|right|Swedish beatnikbeatnik Fashion of the 1960s featured a number of diverse trends, as part of a decade that broke many fashion traditions, adopted new cultures, and launched a new age of social movements. Around the middle of the decade, fashions arising from small pockets of young people in a few urban centers received large amounts of media publicity, and began to heavily influence both the haute couture of elite designers and the mass-market manufacturers. Examples include the mini skirt, culottes, go-go boots, and more experimental fashions, less often seen on the street, such as curved PVC dresses and other PVC clothes.Mary Quant popularized the mini skirt, and Jackie Kennedy introduced the pillbox hat;WEB, Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. 60s Mods., Retrowow.co.uk, March 1, 2009,weblink both became extremely popular. False eyelashes were worn by women throughout the 1960s. Hairstyles were a variety of lengths and styles.WEB, Rich Candace, Makeup, 2010–2015,weblink Fiftiesweb.com, Psychedelic prints, neon colors, and mismatched patterns were in style.WEB, Vintage Fashion Newsreels 1960s, Dir. Vidcat1. Redtube, February 13, 2007, March 27, 2009,weblinkweblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20100507074258weblink">weblink 2010-05-07, dead, Youtube.com, File:JKO 606P.jpg|thumb|US First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy arrives in VenezuelaVenezuelaIn the early-to-mid 1960s, London "Modernists" known as Mods influenced male fashion in Britain.WEB, Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. 60s Mods, Retrowow.co.uk, March 1, 2009,weblink Designers were producing clothing more suitable for young adults, leading to an increase in interest and sales.WEB, Goodwin, Susan, and Becky Bradley. American Cultural History: 1960–1969, Kingwood College Library, Kclibrary.lonestar.edu, March 1, 2009,weblink dead,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20090301015202weblink">weblink March 1, 2009, In the late 1960s, the hippie movement also exerted a strong influence on women's clothing styles, including bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye and batik fabrics, as well as paisley prints.

Women's fashion

Early 1960s (1960–1962)

High fashion

Fashions in the early years of the decade reflected the elegance of the First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy. In addition to tailored skirts, women wore stiletto heel shoes and suits with short boxy jackets, and oversized buttons. Simple, geometric dresses, known as shifts, were also in style. For evening wear, full-skirted evening dresses were worn; these often had low necklines or boat-necklines and close-fitting waists. For casual wear, capri trousers were the fashion for women and girls.{{citation needed|date=July 2017}}

The rise of trousers for women

File:Go-go boots by Andre Courreges, 1965.jpg|thumb|A pair of go-go boots designed by Andre Courrege in 1965.]]The 1960s were an age of fashion innovation for women. The early 1960s gave birth to drainpipe jeans and capri pants, a style popularized by Audrey Hepburn.WEB, Audrey Hepburn's style hits,weblink Harper's BAZAAR, 2014-05-02, 2016-02-08, Casual dress became more unisex and often consisted of plaid button down shirts worn with slim blue jeans, comfortable slacks, or skirts. Traditionally, trousers had been viewed by western society as masculine, but by the early 1960s, it had become acceptable for women to wear them every day. These included Levi Strauss jeans, previously considered blue collar wear, and "stretch" drainpipe jeans with elastane.weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20181221000740weblink">1962 Sears catalog Women's trousers came in a variety of styles: narrow, wide, below the knee, above the ankle, and eventually mid thigh. Mid-thigh cut trousers, also known as shorts, evolved around 1969. By adapting men's style and wearing trousers, women voiced their equality to men.BOOK, Deslandres, François Boucher; with a new chapter by Yvonne, 20,000 Years of Fashion : the history of costume and personal adornment, 1987, Harry N. Abrams, New York, 0-8109-1693-2, Expanded,

Mid 1960s (1963–1966)

Bikini

File:Beach Party Annette Funicello Frankie Avalon Mid-1960s.jpg|thumb|190px|left|Publicity photo of Frankie Avalon and Annette Funicello for Beach Party films (c. 1960s). Funicello was not permitted to expose her navel.]]The modern bikini, named after the nuclear test site on Bikini Atoll, was invented in France by Louis Réard in 1946 but struggled to gain acceptance in the mass-market during the 1950s, especially in America. In 1963, rather large versions of bikinis featured in the surprise hit teen film Beach Party, which led a wave of films that made the bikini a pop-culture symbol.The first Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue, in 1964, featured Babette March in a white bikini on the cover.MAGAZINE, Gibson, Megan, Top 10 Bikinis in Pop Culture,weblink Time, 17 June 2018, 5 July 2011, This has been credited with making the bikini a legitimate piece of clothingweblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20080706155241weblink">weblink

Monokini

The monokini, also known as a "topless bikini" or "unikini",WEB, Monokini,weblink 20 August 2015, live,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20150818034055weblink">weblink 18 August 2015, WEB,weblink Bikini Science, 2018-01-27, live,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20180127202536weblink">weblink 2018-01-27, was designed by Rudi Gernreich in 1964, consisting of only a brief, close-fitting bottom and two thin straps;WEB, Monokini,weblink Free Dictionary, 20 August 2015, it was the first women's topless swimsuit.WEB, Rosebush, Judson, Peggy Moffitt Topless Maillot in Studio,weblink Bikini Science, 27 January 2018, dead,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20180127202433weblink">weblink 27 January 2018, BOOK, Alac, Patrik, Bikini Story, 2012, Parkstone International, 978-1780429519, 68,weblink live,weblink 2018-01-29, Gernreich's revolutionary and controversial design included a bottom that "extended from the midriff to the upper thigh"WEB,weblink Bikini Styles: Monokini, Everything Bikini, 13 January 2013, 2005, dead,weblink" title="archive.today/20120729151157weblink">weblink 29 July 2012, and was "held up by shoestring laces that make a halter around the neck."NEWS, Nangle, Eleanore, Topless Swimsuit Causes Commotion,weblink 20 August 2015, Chicago Tribune, June 10, 1964, live,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20150914161150weblink">weblink 14 September 2015, Some credit Gernreich's design with initiating, or describe it as a symbol of, the sexual revolution.WEB, Fit Celebrates the Substance of Style,weblink Elle (magazine), Elle, 23 August 2015, July 5, 2009, live,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20150924010954weblink">weblink 24 September 2015,

Space Age fashions

(File:Hoeden Astronaut look , Wenen, Bestanddeelnr 922-5319 (cropped).jpg|thumb|Astronaut Look (Vienna))Space age fashion first appeared in the late 1950s,BOOK, Parnis, Mollie, 1959 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1958, Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc., 247, Fashion and Dress, In 1958, the 'revolutionary' silhouette was a long, unbroken oval, obviously inspired by a space rocket's shape..., BOOK, Fogarty, Anne, The Americana Annual 1959: Events of 1958, Americana Corporation, 250, Fashion, The chemise...began in Paris in 1957,...variously called the sack, the shift, or the space silhouette..., and developed further in the 1960s. It was heavily influenced by the Space Race of the Cold War, in addition to popular science fiction paperbacks, films and television series such as (Star Trek: The Original Series), Dan Dare, or Lost In Space. Designers often emphasized the energy and technology advancements of the Cold War era in their work.BOOK, Fear and fashion in the Cold War, Pavitt, Jane, V&A Pub., 2008, 9781851775446, London, 60, The space age look was defined by boxy shapes, thigh length hemlines and bold accessories. Synthetic material was also popular with space age fashion designers. After the Second World War, fabrics like nylon, corfam, orlon, terylene, lurex and spandex were promoted as cheap, easy to dry, and wrinkle-free. The synthetic fabrics of the 1960s allowed space age fashion designers such as the late Pierre Cardin to design garments with bold shapes and a plastic texture.BOOK, Sixties fashion: From less is more to youthquake., Walford, Johnathan, Thames & Hudson, 2013, 9780500516935, London, 110, Non-cloth material, such as polyester, lucite, and PVC, became popular in clothing and accessories as well. For daytime outerwear, short plastic raincoats, colourful swing coats, bubble dresses, helmet-like hats, and dyed fake-furs were popular for young women.Pierre Cardin Colors associated with Space Age fashions, especially in 1965 and '66, were dominated by metallic silverBOOK, Blackwell, Betsy Talbot, The American Peoples Encyclopedia 1966 Encyclopedia Yearbook: Events of 1965, Grolier Incorporated, 233, Fashions, ...she chose...a silver-mesh sweater to pour over silver bell-bottoms. And she would have no trouble finding silver-flecked stockings and silver-kid sandals., BOOK, Howell, Georgina, In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue, 1978, Penguin Books Ltd., Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England, 0-14-00-4955-X, 292, 1966, ...everything silver, from visor to stockings and shoes...[Y]ou wear silver leather and plastic chain mail...chrome jewellery,...silver stockings, silver shoes laced up the leg, bangles of clear plastic and chrome. Silver leather or shirred silver nylon make the new jackets..., and the stark whites of André Courrèges. The futuristic-looking geometry of the Op Art of such artists as Bridget Riley and Victor Vasarely influenced prints,BOOK, Blackwell, Betsy Talbot, The American Peoples Encyclopedia 1966 Encyclopedia Yearbook: Events of 1965, Grolier Incorporated, 232, Fashions, Op art was a natural for fabric design, and many a 1965 shift was opped-up., BOOK, Cassini, Oleg, Collier's 1966 Year Book: Covering the Year 1965, Crowell Collier and MacMillan, Inc., 212, Fashion, Op Art, the newest in the art world, was quickly incorporated into clothes and makeup....James Galanos fashioned two Op-inspired fabrics...into this dazzling dress, which seems to be part of its background, Op artist Victor Vasarely's kaleidoscopic collage., as did geometric art from earlier in the century like that of Piet Mondrian, inspiration for Yves Saint Laurent's popular Mondrian shift dresses of 1965. Fluorescent colors (also known as day-glo or neon) and even light-up dresses like those shown by Diana Dew in 1967 were also seen. In 1966, the Nehru jacket arrived on the fashion scene, and was worn by both sexes. Suits were very diverse in color but were, for the first time ever,{{citation needed|date=July 2023}} fitted and very slim. Waistlines for women were left unmarked and hemlines were getting shorter and shorter.File:Brigitte Bardot.jpg|thumb|left|French actress Brigitte Bardot wearing a transparent top and a feather boafeather boaFootwear for women included low-heeled sandals and kitten-heeled pumps, as well as trendy white go-go boots and shoes of transparent plastic.JOURNAL, Emerson, Gloria, Gloria Emerson, Paris: Strictly for Small-Boned Girls, The New York Times, 1966-01-27, 37,weblink 2023-07-13, Roger Vivier, who provides most of the new shoes for the haute couture, has made everything in clear plastic this year..., Shoes, boots, and handbags were often made of patent leather or vinyl.BOOK, Hasson, Rachelle, World Book Year Book 1968: Events of 1967, Field Enterprises Educational Corporation, Chicago, Illinois, USA, 336, 338, Fashion, Women...fancied high boots as a means of covering their new length of leg. High-rise stretch vinyl or patent leather provided glovelike sleekness...Boots stretched to the knees, to the thighs, or even to cover the entire leg like [a] fisherman's hip boots....Autumn gave new luster to shoes and handbags of patent leather..., The Beatles wore elastic-sided boots similar to Winkle-pickers with pointed toes and Cuban heels. These were known as "Beatle boots" and were widely copied by young men in Britain.The French designer André Courrèges was particularly influential in the development of space age fashion. The "space look" he introduced in the spring of 1964 included trouser suits, goggles, box-shaped dresses with high skirts, and go-go boots. Go-go boots eventually became a staple of go-go girl fashion in the 1960s.WEB,weblink Remembering André Courrèges, Yotka, Steff, Vogue, 8 January 2016, en-US, 2016-05-19, The boots were defined by their fluorescent colors, shiny material, and sequins.BBC Culture: Space age fashionOther influential space age designers included Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, Rudi Gernreich,MAGAZINE, Fashion for the '70s: Rudi Gernreich Makes Some Modest Proposals, Life, 1970-01-09, 68, 1, 115–118,weblink 2022-01-03, Emanuel Ungaro, Jean-Marie Armand,WEB, Jean-Marie Armand,weblink Couture Allure, 2021-12-13, 2011-03-08, His designs were very modern and architectural, much like those of Courreges and Cardin., Michèle Rosier, and Diana Dew, though even designers like Yves Saint LaurentBOOK, Howell, Georgina, In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue, 1978, Penguin Books Ltd., Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England, 0-14-00-4955-X, 280, 283, 1963, Saint Laurent's black and white geometric shifts...Saint Laurent: Black ciré smock[, helmet,] and thigh-high alligator boots., BOOK, Peake, Andy, Made for Walking, 2018, Schiffer Fashion Press, Atglen, Pennsylvania, 978-0-7643-5499-1, 57, Chapeau Melon et Bottes de Cuir, Yves Saint Laurent's fall...1963...visored caps, black leather jerkins, and Roger Vivier's...thigh-high...boots in crocodile gave what [the Daily Mail{{', s Iris] Ashley called 'a real space girl effect...'}}WEB, 1965 Homage to Piet Mondrian,weblink Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 2022-01-09, BOOK, Howell, Georgina, In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue, 1978, Penguin Books Ltd., Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England, 0-14-00-4955-X, 292, 1966, Saint Laurent makes his shifts...transparent except where they are striped or chevroned with silver sequins., showed the look during its peak of influence from 1963 to 1967.BOOK, Howell, Georgina, In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue, 1978, Penguin Books Ltd., Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England, 0-14-00-4955-X, 292, 1966, Space projections...plastic, chrome, Dynel...[Y]ou wear...skirts that show the whole length of your legs, mops of artificial hair coloured pink, green and purple...and visor sunglasses....huge plastic disc earrings,...and eye make-up is designed to be seen from 100 yards, in streamlined eyeliners, black and white used alternately..., BOOK, Howell, Georgina, In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue, 1978, Penguin Books Ltd., Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England, 0-14-00-4955-X, 296, 1967-68, 1967-68...mark[ed] the change in direction from futurist to romantic fashion....[i]n reaction to the uniformity of geometric haircuts and 'functional' fashion, stiff carved tweed shifts and creaking plastic..., Italian-born Pierre CardinWEB,weblink Pierre Cardin, 2016, Encyclopædia Britannica, 2016-05-18, was best known for his helmets, short tunics, and goggles. However, Paco Rabanne has been credited as the one who revolutionized the Space Age fashion.NEWS,weblink Paco Rabanne, Spanish fashion designer known for his Space Age creations, dies at 88, Toyin, Owoseje, Amaud, Siad, CNN, 3 February 2023, 3 February 2023, Rabanne was known for his 1966 "12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials" collection, made of chain mail, aluminum, and plastic.BOOK, Fashion design, referenced: A visual guide to the history, language, and practice of fashion. Gloucester, Kennedy, Alicia, Rockport, 2013, 978-1592536771, MA, Rabanne would even design the iconic green dress, as well as the other costumes, Jane Fonda wore in the 1968 science fiction film Barbarella.NEWS,weblink Who Owns Paco Rabanne Now? Visionary Designer Dies Aged 88, Yasmine, Leung, HITC, 3 February 2023, 3 February 2023, NEWS,weblink Paco Rabanne Dies: Spanish 'Barbarella' Fashion Designer Was 88, Melanie, Goodfellow, Deadline Hollywood, 3 February 2023, 3 February 2023, People Magazine journalist Hedy Philips described Rabanne's Space Age fashion as "turning the fashion world upside down."NEWS,weblink Spanish Fashion Designer Paco Rabanne Dies at Age 88, Hedy, Philips, People.com, 3 February 2023, 3 February 2023,

A timeless fashion piece: miniskirt

(File:Athen - Erechtheon.JPG|thumb|right|German girl wearing a miniskirt in Greece, 1962.)The definition of a miniskirt is a skirt with a hemline around 6, 7 inches above the knees. Early references to the miniskirt from the Wyoming newspaper The Billings Gazette, described the miniskirt as a controversial item that was produced in Mexico City.{{citation needed|date=June 2017}} During the 1950s, the miniskirt began appearing in science fiction films like Flight to Mars and Forbidden Planet.Parks, C. (2015, March 23). The Miniskirt: An Evolution From The '60s To Now. Retrieved October 30, 2016, fromweblinkMary Quant and Andre Courreges both contributed to the invention of the miniskirt during the 1960s. Mary Quant, A British designer, was one of the pioneers of the miniskirt during 1960. She named the skirt after her favorite car, the Mini Cooper. Quant introduced her design in the mid-1960s at her London boutique, Bazaar. She has said: " We wanted to increase the availability of fun for everyone. We felt that expensive things were almost immoral and the New Look was totally irrelevant to us." Miniskirts became popular in London and Paris and the term "Chelsea Look" was coined.Paula Reed. (2012). In Fifty Fashion Looks that Changed the 1960s (pp. 30–31). England: Alison Starling.Andre Courreges was a French fashion designer who also began experimenting with hemlines in the early 1960s. He started to show space-age dresses that hit above the knee in late 1964. His designs were more structured and sophisticated than Quant's design.{{citation needed|date=July 2017}} This made the miniskirt more acceptable to the French public. His clothes represented a couture version of the "Youthquake" street style and heralded the arrival of the "moon girl" look.Koda, H. (2010). 100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. S.l.: Yale University Press.As teen culture became stronger, the term "Youthquake" came to mean the power of young people. This was unprecedented before the 1960s. Before World War II, teenagers dressed and acted like their parents. Many settled down and began raising families when they were young, normally right after high school. They were often expected to work and assist their families financially. Therefore, youth culture begins to develop only after World War II, when the advancement of many technologies and stricter child labor laws became mainstream. Teenagers during this period had more time to enjoy their youth, and the freedom to create their own culture separate from their parents. Teens soon began establishing their own identities and communities, with their own views and ideas, breaking away from the traditions of their parents.Blackman, C. (2012). 100 Years of Fashion. London: Laurence King Pub. The fabulous "little girl" look was introduced to USA—styling with Bobbie Brooks, bows, patterned knee socks and mini skirts. The miniskirt and the "little girl" look that accompanied it reflect a revolutionary shift in the way people dress. Instead of younger generations dressing like adults, they became inspired by childlike dress.Nectara, J (2012, July 13). "The Miniskirt – A Short History." Retrieved October 30, 2016, from weblink" title="https:/-/web.archive.org/web/20160821190352weblink">weblinkSecond-wave feminism made the miniskirt popular. Women had entered the professional workforce in larger numbers during World War II and many women soon found they craved a career and life outside the home.Bourne, L. (2014). "A history of the Miniskirt: How fashion's most daring hemline came to be." Retrieved October 30, 2016, fromweblink They wanted the same choices, freedoms, and opportunities that were offered to men.Niara. (2016, January 9). "Aesthetics and Activism: The history of miniskirt." Retrieved October 30, 2016, fromweblink the mid-1960s, Mod girls wore very short miniskirts, tall, brightly colored go-go boots, monochromatic geometric print patterns such as houndstooth, and tight fitted, sleeveless tunics. Flared trousers and bell bottoms appeared in 1964 as an alternative to capri pants, and led the way to the hippie period introduced in the 1960s. Bell bottoms were usually worn with chiffon blouses, polo-necked ribbed sweaters or tops that bared the midriff. These were made in a variety of materials including heavy denims, silks, and even elasticated fabrics.BOOK, Tarrant, Naomi, The Development of Costume, 1994, Routledge, London, 88, Variations of polyester were worn along with acrylics. A popular look for women was the suede mini-skirt worn with a French polo-neck top, square-toed boots, and Newsboy cap or beret. This style was also popular in the early 2000s.Women were inspired by the top models of those days, such as Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Colleen Corby, Penelope Tree, Edie Sedgwick and Veruschka. Velvet mini dresses with lace-collars and matching cuffs, wide tent dresses and culottes pushed aside the geometric shift. False eyelashes were in vogue, as was pale lipstick. Hemlines kept rising, and by 1968 they had reached well above mid-thigh. These were known as "micro-minis". This was when the "angel dress" first made its appearance on the fashion scene. A micro-mini dress with a flared skirt and long, wide trumpet sleeves, it was usually worn with patterned tights, and was often made of crocheted lace, velvet, chiffon or sometimes cotton with a psychedelic print. The cowled-neck "monk dress" was another religion-inspired alternative; the cowl could be pulled up to be worn over the head. For evening wear, skimpy chiffon baby-doll dresses with spaghetti-straps were popular, as well as the "cocktail dress", which was a close-fitting sheath, usually covered in lace with matching long sleeves.Contini, p. 317 Feather boas were occasionally worn. Famous celebrities associated with marketing the miniskirt included: Twiggy; model Jean Shrimpton, who attended an event in the Melbourne Cup Carnival in Australia wearing a miniskirt in 1965; Goldie Hawn, who appeared on Rowan and Martin's Laugh-In with her mini skirt in 1967; and Jackie Kennedy, who wore a short white pleated Valentino dress when she married Aristotle Onassis in 1968.

The Single Girl

File:Jean Shrimpton (1965).jpg|thumb|alt=Writer Helen Gurley Brown wrote Sex and the Single Girl in 1962. This book acted as a guide for women of any marital status to take control of their own lives financially as well as emotionally.BOOK, Sex and the Single Girl, Brown, Helen Gurley, Bernard Geis Associates, 1962, 9781569802526, This book was revolutionary since it encouraged sex before marriage; something that was historically looked down upon. With the high success of this book, a pathway was set for media to also encourage this behavior. Betty Friedan also wrote The Feminine Mystique the following year, giving insight into the suburban female experience, further igniting women's push for a more independent lifestyle.BOOK, The Feminine Mystique, Friedan, Betty, W. W. Norton and Co., 1963, 0-393-32257-2, The second-wave of feminism was getting its start during this period: pushing for a new feminine ideal to be capitalized on.Fashion photography in the 1960s represented a new feminine ideal for women and young girls: the Single Girl. 1960s photography was in sharp contrast to the models of the 1920s, who were carefully posed for the camera and portrayed as immobile. The Single Girl represented 'movement'. She was young, single, active, and economically self-sufficient. To represent this new Single Girl feminine ideal, many 1960s photographers photographed models outside—often having them walk or run in fashion shoots. Models in the 1960s also promoted sports wear, which reflected the modern fascination with speed and the quickening pace of the 1960s urban life. Although the Single Girl was economically, socially and emotionally self-sufficient, the ideal body form was difficult for many to achieve. Therefore, women were constrained by diet restrictions that seemed to contradict the image of the empowered 1960s Single Girl.BOOK, Radner, Hilary, Body Dressing, 2001, Bloomsbury Academic, 1859734448, 183–197, Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth B. Wilson, Embodying the Single Girl in the 1960s, Fashion photographers also photographed the Single Girl wearing business wear, calling her the Working Girl. The Working Girl motif represented another shift for the modern, fashionable woman. Unlike earlier periods, characterized by formal evening gowns and the European look, the 1960s Working Girl popularized day wear and "working clothing". New ready to wear lines replaced individualized formal couture fashion. The Working Girl created an image of a new, independent woman who has control over her body.There was a new emphasis on ready-to-wear and personal style. As the 1960s was an era of exponential innovation, there was appreciation for something new rather than that of quality. Spending a lot of money on an expensive, designer wardrobe was no longer the ideal and women from various statuses would be found shopping in the same stores.The Single Girl was the true depiction of the societal and commercial obsession with the adolescent look. Particular to the mid-sixties, icons such as Twiggy popularized the shapeless shift dresses emphasizing an image of innocence as they did not fit to any contours of the human body. The female body has forever been a sign of culturally constructed ideals.JOURNAL, Evans, C., 1991, Fashion, Representation, Femininity, Feminist Review, 38, 48–66, 10.1057/fr.1991.19, 143932525, The long-limbed and pre-pubescent style of the time depicts how women were able to be more independent, yet paradoxically, also were put into a box of conceived ideals.

Dolly Girl

The "Dolly Girl" was another archetype for young females in the 1960s. She emerged in the mid-1960s, and her defining characteristic is the iconic miniskirt. "Dolly Girls" also sported long hair, slightly teased, and childish-looking clothing. Clothes were worn tight fitting, sometimes even purchased from a children's section. Dresses were often embellished with lace, ribbons, and other frills; the look was topped off with light colored tights. Crocheted clothing also took off within this specific style.Bond, David (1981). The Guinness Guide to 20th Century Fashion. Middlesex: Guinness Superlatives Limited. pp. 164, 176. {{ISBN|0851122345}}Corsets, seamed tights, and skirts covering the knees were no longer fashionable. The idea of buying urbanized clothing that could be worn with separate pieces was intriguing to women of this era. In the past, one would only buy specific outfits for certain occasions.WEB, Belinda T. Orzada,weblink Orzada, Belinda T. "Fashion Trends and Cultural Influences 1960-present." Twentieth Century Design: Ethnic Influences. 7 Oct. 1998. University of Delaware. 10 Apr. 2009, Udel.edu, 2000-01-10, 2012-08-11,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20120618170336weblink">weblink 2012-06-18, dead,

Late 1960s (1967–1969)

The hippie subculture

Starting in 1967, youth culture began to change musically and Mod culture shifted to a more laid back hippie or Bohemian style. Hosiery manufacturers of the time like Mary Quant (who founded Pamela Mann Legwear) combined the "Flower Power" style of dress and the Pop Art school of design to create fashion tights that would appeal to a female audience that enjoyed psychedelia.Hosiery Trends Over The DecadesPonchos, moccasins, love beads, peace signs, medallion necklaces, chain belts, polka dot-printed fabrics, and long, puffed "bubble" sleeves were popular fashions in the late 1960s. Both men and women wore frayed bell-bottomed jeans, tie-dyed shirts, work shirts, Jesus sandals, and headbands. Women would often go barefoot and some went braless. The idea of multiculturalism also became very popular; a lot of style inspiration was drawn from traditional clothing in Nepal, India, Bali, Morocco and African countries. Because inspiration was being drawn from all over the world, there was increasing separation of style; clothing pieces often had similar elements and created similar silhouettes, but there was no real "uniform".BOOK, Miles, Barry, Hippie, 2004, Sterling, 1402714424, Fringed buck-skin vests, flowing caftans, the "lounging" or "hostess" pajamas were also popular. "Hostess" pajamas consisted of a tunic top over floor-length culottes, usually made of polyester or chiffon. Long maxi coats, often belted and lined in sheepskin, appeared at the close of the decade. Animal prints were popular for women in the autumn and winter of 1969. Women's shirts often had transparent sleeves. Psychedelic prints, hemp and the look of "Woodstock" emerged during this era.{{citation needed|date=October 2014}}

Indian fashion

File:Bundesarchiv B 145 Bild-F007553-0012, Beethovenhalle Bonn, Empfang Botschaft von Indien.jpg|thumb|left|Middle class Indian menswear followed postwar European trends, but most women continued to wear traditional dress such as the sari.]]In general, urban Indian men imitated Western fashions such as the business suit. This was adapted to India's hot tropical climate as the Nehru suit, a garment often made from khadi that typically had a mandarin collar and patch pockets. From the early 1950s until the mid-1960s, most Indian women maintained traditional dress such as the gagra choli, sari, and churidar. At the same time as the hippies of the late 1960s were imitating Indian fashions, however, some fashion conscious Indian and Ceylonese women began to incorporate modernist Western trends.WEB,weblink Reading Eagle - Google News Archive Search, news.google.com, One particularly infamous fad combined the miniskirt with the traditional sari, prompting a moral panic where conservatives denounced the so-called "hipster sari"WEB,weblink Gadsden Times - Google News Archive Search, news.google.com, as indecent.

Feminist influences

During the late 1960s, there was a backlash by radical feminists in America against accouterments of what they perceived to be enforced femininity within the fashion industry. Instead, these activists wore androgynous and masculine clothing such as jeans, work boots or berets. Black feminists often wore afros in reaction to the hair straighteners associated with middle class white women. At the 1968 feminist Miss America protest, protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine fashion-related products into a "Freedom Trash Can," including false eyelashes, high-heeled shoes, curlers, hairspray, makeup, girdles, corsets, and brasJOURNAL, Dow, Bonnie J., Feminism, Miss America, and Media Mythology, Rhetoric & Public Affairs, 6, 1, Spring 2003, 127–149, 10.1353/rap.2003.0028, 143094250, which they termed "instruments of female torture".BOOK, Duffett, Judith, WLM vs. Miss America, Voice of the Women's Liberation Movement, October 1968, 4,

Men's fashion

Early 1960s (1960–1962)

Business wear

File:Cal-Neva Casino, NV, Lake Tahoe, The Rat Pack 9-2010 (5782322671).jpg|thumb|right|The Rat PackRat PackDuring the early 1960s, slim fitting single breasted continental style suits and skinny ties were fashionable in the UK and America. These suits, as worn by Sean Connery as James Bond, the Rat Pack's Frank Sinatra,WEB,weblinkweblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20130214061507weblink">weblink dead, February 14, 2013, A guide to Suit Problems for men, 11 December 2012, and the cast of Mad Men, were often made from grey flannel, mohair or sharkskin.WEB,weblink Mohair Suiting Fabric Guide—Gentleman's Gazette, www.gentlemansgazette.com, 28 November 2015, Tuxedos were cut in a similar form fitting style, with shawl collars and a single button, and were available either in the traditional black, or in bright colors such as red or sky blue popularized by Frankie Valli of The Four Seasons. Men's hats, including the pork pie hat and Irish hat, had narrower brims than the homburgs and fedoras worn in the 1950s and earlier. During the mid-1960s, hats began to declineWEB,weblink The History And Abuse of The Fedora, 2017-11-25, 2017-05-14,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20170514233105weblink">weblink dead, after presidents John F. Kennedy and Lyndon B. Johnson appeared in public without one.WEB,weblink Top Hats and Bibles: Inauguration Traditions, 19 January 2009, ABC News,

Ivy League

File:Kennedy aboard Manitou.jpg|thumb|Casual Ivy League outfit worn by President John F KennedyJohn F KennedyIvy League fashion, the precursor to the modern preppy look, was desirable casual wear for middle class adults in America during the early to mid 1960s. Typical outfits included polo shirts, harrington jackets, khaki chino pants, striped T-shirts, Argyle socks, seersucker or houndstooth sportcoats, sweater vests, cardigan sweaters, Nantucket Reds, basketweave loafers, Madras plaid shirts, and narrow brimmed Trilbys sometimes made from straw.WEB,weblinkweblink 2022-05-01, subscription, live, League of gentlemen: How to get the effortlessly cool style of Paul, Independent.co.uk, 2010-09-19, {{cbignore}}WEB,weblink Claudio De Rossi talks Ivy with Jimmy Frost Mellor - Modculture, 26 October 2017, The style remained fashionable for men until it was supplanted by more casual everyday clothing influenced by the hippie counterculture during the late 1960s and early 1970s.WEB,weblink The Ivy Style Primer—Gentleman's Gazette, www.gentlemansgazette.com, 13 July 2018,

Mid 1960s (1963–1966)

File:Busy-Bee-rockers.jpg|thumb|right|During the early and mid-1960s, Greasers, also known as Ton-up Boys, were identifiable by their blue jeans and black Schott Perfecto leather jacketleather jacket

Surf fashion

File:Beach Boys 1963.jpg|thumb|right|The Beach BoysBeach BoysIn America and Australia, surf rock went mainstream from 1962 to 1966, resulting in many teenage baby boomers imitating the outfits of groups like The Beach Boys. Pendleton jackets were common due to their cheapness, warmth and durability. Design wise the surf jacket suited popularly with nonchalance, warmth for coastal Californian climate, and utility pockets for surf wax and VW car keys, two surf essentials (Pendleton Woolen Mills).NEWS,weblink Pendleton Woolen Mills - An Unlikely Surf Icon, 2016-09-12, Heddels, 2018-04-15, en-US, The Pendleton Surf Jacket expanded upon Fifties pop-cultural fashions, however new in its relaxed, intangibly cool vibe. The surf jacket split from the tough guy rock 'n' roll teen, and mellowing leather's rock attitudes to woolen plaids. Following Rock n Roll's decline were rebels without causes, "Greasers" and "Beats"; dressed down in inappropriate daywear to denounce conformity, Sixties youth, inventors of Surf Fashion, expressed more nomadic and hedonically in this "dress down" style. Surf styles mainstreamed into fashion when Soul Surfers wanted to make livings in surfing-associated careers. They opened businesses that expanded selling surf products into selling surf clothing. These surfer entrepreneurs proliferate surf fashion by mixing their lifestyles into casual wear.BOOK, Subcultural and Alternative Dress in Australia, 7, Jones, Glynis, Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, en, 10.2752/bewdf/edch7034, 2010, 216–223, 9781847888563, As Rock n Roll Beats, and Greaser car clubs used jackets to identify, and as 1950 varsity sports wore lettered cardigans, 1960s Surfies wore surf jackets to identify with surf clubs and as surfers (Retro 1960s Swimwear).NEWS,weblink Retro 1960s Swimwear, Beachwear and Surf Fashion, 2016-06-26, Dust Factory Vintage Clothing Wholesale, 2018-04-15, en-US, Jackets worn as group status identifiers continued in the Sixties, but with focus around beach music and lifestyle.As surfers banded over localism, plaid and striped surf jackets gained relevancy. Teens wore them to proclaim surf clubs; what beach they were from, and where they surfed. For a surfer though, it is curious why a woolen plaid jacket paired with UGG boots, and not the board-short or aloha shirt identified the surfer. The Pendleton plaid, originally worn by loggers, hunters and fishermen, was a common item of casual wear for American men of all classes before the British invasion. For the youth of the 1960s, however, the plaid Pendleton signified counterculture, and tribal seamen style translated from Welsh folklore, rebellious Scots Highlanders, and rugged American frontiersmen (Bowe).NEWS,weblink The History of Flannel - Gear Patrol, 2014-10-02, Gear Patrol, 2018-04-15, en-US, The Sixties invented the Californian Cool style, by relaxing style to escape Cold War meltdowns with Polynesian fascinations, bridging the macho 1950s teen towards 1960s Hippie style. The Cold War's tense political context conceived Surf Fashion as a way to relax and escape established violence. California, the birthplace of American Surfing, also produced much of the technology experimentations used in the nuclear space race. Caltech designers in Pasadena were designing nuclear arms for day jobs and were surfing at night. The modern surfboard design itself originates from the military-industrial complex's product development, where the Manhattan Project's Hugh Bradner also designed the modern neoprene wetsuit (Inside the Curl).NEWS,weblinkweblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20130806120712weblink">weblink dead, August 6, 2013, Inside the Curl: Surfing's Surprising History, 2013-08-04, 2018-04-15, Californian engineers for the Cold War were also surfing and equally engineering that fashion. Just as the Bikini's name comes from a nuclear test site, Surf fashion in this era consistently references the Cold War context. Surfing became an attractive fashion identity in this era because it perpetuates adolescence, and the pursuit of pleasure in times of anxiety and paranoia. In a teenage-driven culture, which aimed to ignore establishment conflicts, surfers mused Hawaii and its associated tiki culture as a place of escape with tropical paradises as the antithesis to modern society. This sustained Hawaiian flora and fauna patterns' in fashion its attraction. The Sixties Surfer was not the first to escape violence or revolutionize the pursuit of happiness through Polynesian fascination. Accounts of Thomas Jefferson theorize that his exposure to the surfer image in South Pacific travel journals influenced his imagined Pursuit of Happiness (Martin D. Henry).Martin D. Henry (ITQ, vol. 63/3, 1998, 250–62) Similarly, Hawaii's surfer image and Californian translation responds to the decade's violence and further inspired full-on nonviolent revolutionary Hippie fashions.Additionally, as Californian water inspired lifestyles influenced fashion, many guys improvised their own faded jeans using chlorine from backyard swimming pools.BOOK,weblink The Beach Boys FAQ: All That's Left to Know About America's Band, Jon, Stebbins, 1 September 2011, Backbeat Books, Google Books, 9781458429148, Sneakers such as Converse All Stars made the transition from sportswear to streetwear, and guys in California and Hawaii began to grow out their hair.MAGAZINE,weblink Billboard, Lee, Zhito, Surfing Craze Ready to Splash Across Country to East's Youth, 26, 29 June 1963, Nielsen Business Media, Inc., Google Books,

Mod and British Invasion influences

File:Old Mods photo.jpg|thumb|right|The Mods were a British fashion phenomenon in the mid-1960s with their parkas, tailored Italian suits, and scooters.]]The leaders of mid-1960s style were the British. The Mods (short for Modernists) adopted new fads that would be imitated by many young people. Mods formed their own way of life creating television shows and magazines that focused directly on the lifestyles of Mods. British rock bands such as The Who, The Small Faces, the Beatles, and The Kinks emerged from the Mod subculture. It was not until 1964, when the Modernists were truly recognized by the public, that women really were accepted in the group. Women had short, clean haircuts and often dressed in similar styles to the male Mods.The Mods' lifestyle and musical tastes were the exact opposite of their rival group, known as the Rockers. The rockers liked 1950s rock-and roll, wore black leather jackets, greased, pompadour hairstyles, and rode motorbikes. The look of the Mods was classy. They mimicked the clothing and hairstyles of high fashion designers in France and Italy, opting for tailored suits that were topped by parkas. They rode on scooters, usually Vespas or Lambrettas. Mod fashion was often described as the City Gent look. The young menBOOK, Pendergast, Tom and Sarah, Fashion, Costume and Culture, 2004, Thomson Gale, MI, USA, 0-7876-5422-1, 895,weblink incorporated striped boating blazers and bold prints into their wardrobe.MAGAZINE, For Your Love: The Best of the Sixties British Invasion,weblink Rolling Stone, 2016-02-08, 2014-06-02, Shirts were slim, with a necessary button down collar accompanied by slim fitted trousers. Levi's were the only type of jeans worn by Modernists.In the USSR during the mid to late 1960s, Mods and Hippies were nicknamed Hairies for their mop top hair.BOOK,weblink 1965: The Most Revolutionary Year in Music, Andrew Grant, Jackson, 3 February 2015, Macmillan, Google Books, 9781466864979, As with the earlier Stilyagi in the 1950s, young Russian men who dressed this way were ridiculed in the media, and sometimes forced to get their hair cut in police stations.WEB,weblink Confessions of a Soviet moptop, Mikhail, Safanov, 8 August 2003, The Guardian,

Late 1960s (1967–1969)

Folk and counterculture influences

File:Los Gatos estamapados.jpeg|thumb|Argentine rock band Los Gatos in 1968, with psychedelic prints and British-inspired hairstyles.]]The late 1960s to early 1970s witnessed the emergence of the hippie counterculture and freak scene in Britain, Australia, New Zealand and America. Middle class youths of both sexes favored a unisex look with long hair, tie dye and flower power motifs, Bob Dylan caps, kurtas, hemp waistcoats, baja jackets, bell bottoms, sheepskin vests, western shirts and ponchos inspired by acid Westerns, sandals, digger hats, and patches featuring flowers or peace symbols.WEB,weblink Photos of hippies, 2017-11-27, 2016-07-03,weblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20160703213944weblink">weblink dead, Jimi Hendrix popularized the wearing of old military dress uniforms as a statement that war was obsolete.WEB,weblink Troubled Times: 1961–79 – Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages, www.fashionencyclopedia.com, 2017-10-07, Early hippies, derisively referred to as freaks by the older generation, also used elements of roleplay such as headbands, cloaks, frock coats, kaftans, corduroy pants, cowboy boots, and vintage clothing from charity shops, suggesting a romantic historical era, a distant region, or a gathering of characters from a fantasy or science fiction novel.WEB,weblink Bell-Bottoms facts, information, pictures {{!, Encyclopedia.com articles about Bell-Bottoms|website=www.encyclopedia.com|language=en|access-date=2017-10-07}}

Peacock Revolution

File:Pete Townshend and Keith Moon 1967.jpg|thumb|upright|Pete Townshend of The WhoThe WhoBy 1968, the space age mod fashions had been gradually replaced by Victorian, Edwardian and Belle Époque influenced style, with men wearing double-breasted suits of crushed velvet or striped patterns, brocade waistcoats and shirts with frilled collars. Their hair worn below the collar bone. Rolling Stones guitarist Brian Jones epitomised this "dandified" look. Due to the colorful nature of menswear, the time period was described as the Peacock Revolution, and male trendsetters in Britain and America were called "Dandies," "Dudes," or "Peacocks."WEB,weblink The Peacock Revolution, The Peacock Revolution and the Beatles: British Men's Fashion from 1963–1973, 2017-10-07, From the late 1960s until the mid-1970s Carnaby Street and Chelsea's Kings Road were virtual fashion parades, as mainstream menswear took on psychedelic influences. Business suits were replaced by Bohemian Carnaby Street creations that included corduroy, velvet or brocade double breasted suits, frilly shirts, cravats, wide ties and trouser straps, leather boots, and even collarless Nehru jackets. The slim neckties of the early 1960s were replaced with Kipper ties exceeding five inches in width, and featuring crazy prints, stripes and patterns.WEB, Marshall, Peter, Peacock Revolution: Informal Counterculture, Black-tie-guide 2009, February 27, 2009,weblinkweblink" title="web.archive.org/web/20161019051532weblink">weblink 2016-10-19, dead,

Hairstyles of the 1960s

Women's hairstyles

File:The Ronettes and Murray the K.jpg|thumb|The Ronettes with their signature beehive hairstylebeehive hairstyleWomen's hair styles ranged from beehive hairdos in the early part of the decade to the very short styles popularized by Twiggy and Mia Farrow just five years later to a very long straight style as popularized by the hippies in the late 1960s. Between these extremes, the chin-length contour cut and the pageboy were also popular. The pillbox hat was fashionable, due almost entirely to the influence of Jacqueline Kennedy, who was a style-setter throughout the decade. Her bouffant hairstyle, described as a "grown-up exaggeration of little girls' hair", was created by Kenneth.NEWS, Collins, Amy Fine, It had to be Kenneth.(hairstylist Kenneth Battelle)(Interview),weblink 3 December 2012, Vanity Fair, 1 June 2003, BOOK, Wong, Aliza Z., The American beauty industry encyclopedia: Hairstylists, Celebrity, 2010, Greenwood, Santa Barbara, Calif., 9780313359491, 151–154,weblink Julie Willett, During the mid and late 1960s, women's hair styles became very big and used a large quantity of hair spray, as worn in real life by Ronnie Spector and parodied in the musical Hairspray. Wigs became fashionable and were often worn to add style and height. The most important change in hairstyles at this time was that men and women wore androgynous styles that resembled each other. In the UK, it was the new fashion for mod women to cut their hair short and close to their heads.BOOK, Pendergast, Tom and Sarah, Fashion, Costume and Culture, 2004, Thomson Gale, MI, USA, 0-7876-5422-1, 935,weblink Meanwhile, hippie girls favored long, straight natural hair, kept in place with a bandana.

Men's hairstyles

File:Brian_Jones_1967.jpg|thumb|upright|Brian Jones of the Rolling Stones with typical mod haircutmod haircutFor professional men born before 1940, the side parted short back and sides was the norm in the UK, Europe and America from the early 60s until the end of the decade. Black men usually buzzed their hair short or wore styles like the conk, artificially straightened with chemicals. Blue collar white men, especially former military personnel, often wore buzzcuts and flat tops. During the early to mid 60s, rebellious Irish-American, Italian-American and Hispanic teens influenced by the greaser subculture often wore ducktails, pompadours and quiffs.{{citation needed|date=August 2018}}Due to the influence of mod bands like the Beatles or the Rolling Stones, mop-top hairstyles were most popular for white and Hispanic men during the mid 60s.{{citation needed|date=August 2018}} The mod haircut began as a short version around 1963 through 1964, developed into a longer style worn during 1965–66, and eventually evolved into an unkempt hippie version worn during the 1967–1969 period and into the early 1970s. Facial hair, evolving in its extremity from simply having longer sideburns, to mustaches and goatees, to full-grown beards became popular with young men from 1966 onwards.Head coverings changed dramatically towards the end of the decade as men's hats went out of style, replaced by the bandanna, digger hat, Stetson, or Bob Dylan cap if anything at all. As men let their hair grow long, the Afro became the hairstyle of choice for African Americans.{{citation needed|date=August 2018}} This afro was not just a fashion statement but also an emblem of racial pride. They started to believe that by allowing their hair to grow in its nature state without chemical treatments, they would be accepting their racial identities.BOOK, Pendergast, Tom and Sarah, Fashion, Costume and Culture, 2004, Thomson Gale, MI, USA, 0-7876-5422-1, 937–938,weblink

Image gallery

A selection of images representing the fashion trends of the 1960s:{{Clear}}File:Mrs. Kennedy in the Diplomatic Reception Room.jpg|First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy wearing a red wool dress with matching jacket. She was a fashion icon in the early 1960s.File:Barbra Streisand 1962.jpg|Singer and actress Barbra Streisand in 1962 wearing a top with a crew-neck. Her hair is teased at the crown.File:Graciela Borges.jpg|Graciela Borges, Argentine fashion icon of the 1960s, wearing a fur coat, bouffant hair and winged eye liner.File:Audrey Hepburn in Charade 5.jpg|Audrey Hepburn in a scene from the comic thriller Charade dressed by Givenchy 1963.File:Anneke Grönloh 1964 Eurovision dress.jpg|Dress worn by Anneke Grönloh for the 1964 Eurovision Song Contest 1964File:Colleen Corby.jpg|Colleen Corby, teenaged supermodel of the mid-1960s.File:Family photograph 1965.jpg|In 1965, sleeveless shift dresses were popular with women.File:LauderdaleSeaMch1965PoolHat.jpg|Young woman in Florida, 1965.File:Red velvet mini dress 1435042510.jpg|A velvet minidress from 1965.File:1960s fashions (1709303069).jpg|American girl wearing a mini skirt and patterned tights, 1966.File:Lyndon B. Johnson and Imelda Marcos dancing.jpg| Philippine first lady Imelda Marcos with U.S. President Lyndon B. Johnson while sporting her iconic beehive hairstyle, 1966.File:Nutria hat and collar, Leipzig 1966.jpg|Fashion model from Leipzig, GDR wearing a wool suit trimmed with fur and a matching fur hat, 1966.File:1967 hairstyle.jpg|Young woman wears her hair in a headband with flipped ends, 1967.File:GamMonkey67.jpg|Woman at a Singapore zoo, 1967. Note her Pucci-style print dress.File:Rabanne.jpg|Dress by Paco Rabanne, 1967File:Bundesarchiv Bild 183-F0309-0201-001, Berlin, Empfang DDR-Frauen bei Ulbricht.jpg|East German politicians wearing horn rimmed glasses, cat eye glasses, and wire rimmed glasses, late 1960s.File:Nacha Guevara por Foto Estudio Luisita 3.png|Argentine actress Nacha Guevara {{circa|1968}}.File:Mia Adolphson & Lars Jacob 1968.jpg|Lars Jacob (right) in a Lord John coat, the popular "dandified" male fashion in 1968.File:BrideMiniskirt1968.jpg|In the late 1960s, brides often wore white mini wedding dresses.File:Woodstock redmond hair.JPG|Two men at the Woodstock Festival, 1969File:Tony 1969.jpg|Boy with a mop top hair cut, 1969.File:Maria Muldaur 1969.jpg|Singer Maria Muldaur in 1968, wearing a gypsy-style kerchief and hoop earrings.

See also

Fashion designers

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Style icons

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Supermodels

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Fashion photographers

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Teenage subcultures

Other

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References

{{Reflist}}

External links

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, Victoria and Albert Museum
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, 60s Fashion in the Round
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, Victoria and Albert Museum
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, Fashion Ode
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, Swing Fashion – Coats and Jackets
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