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{{Short description|French noblewoman and journalist (1898–1976)}}{{Use dmy dates|date=August 2023}}

factoids

| title = Duchess of Ayen| image = df=y4|5}}| birth_place = Amiens, Francedf=y1118985}}| death_place = Paris, France| burial_place = Château de Maintenon

• Solange de Labriffe
• Solange de Noailles{edih}

• {{ill|Labriffe|fr|Famille de Labriffe{edih} (by birth)
• Noailles (by marriage)

}}Jean Maurice Paul Jules de Noailles1945|end=his death}}| issue = {hide}ubl Journalist|fashion editor}}| house-type = | father = Camille de Labriffe| mother = Anne-Marie de Vassart d’Hozier}}Solange Marie Christine Louise de Labriffe, Duchess of Ayen (5 April 1898 – 3 November 1976),WEB, 1976, Fichier des personnes décédées - DE LABRIFFE Solange Marie Christine Louise {{!, Amiens 05/04/1898 - Paris 03/11/1976 |url=https://deces.matchid.io/id/ZaMQ-EaLrz9A |access-date=2024-02-22 |website=matchID - Moteur de recherche des décès}} known professionally as Solange d’Ayen,WEB, d’Ayen, Solange, 15 October 1940, Letter from France,archive.vogue.com/issue/19401015, Vogue (magazine), Vogue, 114–115, This is a letter from the Duchesse d’Ayen, fashion editor of French Vogue, who is temporarily living in Unoccupied France., 22 August 2023, 22 August 2023,web.archive.org/web/20230822213829/https://archive.vogue.com/issue/19401015, live, Solange de Noailles, and Solange de Labriffe, was a French noblewoman and journalist, known for being the fashion editor of French Vogue magazine from the 1920s until the 1940s. She also wrote for the American Vogue. She was born into the {{ill|House of Labriffe|fr|Famille de Labriffe}} and was named Duchess of Ayen by marrying Jean Maurice Paul Jules de Noailles, the 6th Duke of Ayen, in 1919, with whom she had two children.Solange was a survivor of a Nazi concentration camp after being arrested by the Nazis in 1942. She died in Paris on 3 November 1976 at the age of 78.

Early life

Solange Marie Christine Louise de Labriffe was born in Amiens, in northern France, on 5 April 1898. Born into the House of Labriffe, her father was Camille, Count of Labriffe, and her mother was Countess Anne-Marie Vassart d’Hozier.WEB, 18 November 2022, Maison de Labriffe,racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Labriffe.pdf, Racines & Histoire, 11, fr, 22 August 2023, 22 August 2023,racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Labriffe.pdf," title="web.archive.org/web/20230822213834racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Labriffe.pdf,">web.archive.org/web/20230822213834racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Labriffe.pdf, live, She had an older sister, Marie de Labriffe (1893–1985).WEB, Famille de Labriffe,man8rove.com/fr/blason/qmdgga3-labriffe, fr, 23 August 2023, 21 December 2022,web.archive.org/web/20221221175854/https://man8rove.com/fr/blason/qmdgga3-labriffe, live,

Career

In the late 1920s,BOOK, Nina-Sophia, Miralles, Glossy: The Inside Story of Vogue, 80, Quercus, 18 March 2021, 9781529402773,books.google.com/books?id=u3bBDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT80, 22 August 2023, 26 February 2023,web.archive.org/web/20230226173221/https://books.google.com/books?id=u3bBDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT80, live, JOURNAL, Emmanuelle, Paccaud, La presse magazine comme espace médiatique transatlantique {{!, Pratiques éditoriales et représentations des rédacteurs en chef de Vogue et Vanity Fair (1914–1942) |url=https://journals.openedition.org/belphegor/4179 |journal=Belphégor. Littérature Populaire et Culture Médiatique |date=19 February 2023 |issue=19–2 |doi=10.4000/belphegor.4179 |s2cid=246101666 |quote=Solange d’Ayen, rédactrice de mode pour Vogue français depuis la fin des années 1920 |language=fr |access-date=22 August 2023 |archive-date=22 August 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230822215019journals.openedition.org/belphegor/4179 |url-status=live |doi-access=free }} Solange started working as a fashion consultantBOOK, Snow, Carmel, The World of Carmel Snow, Aswell, Mary Louise, McGraw-Hill, 1 January 1962, 55, 547124, BOOK, Penelope, Rowlands, A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters, Atria Books, 12 November 2008, 9780743480451, 109,books.google.com/books?id=aD_q00HcIBkC&pg=PT109, 21 October 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091436/https://books.google.com/books?id=aD_q00HcIBkC&pg=PT109#v=onepage&q&f=false, live, and later became the fashion editor of French Vogue magazine under the name Solange de Noailles.WEB, de Noailles, Solange, 1 April 1928, The Coast of Azure and Gold,archive.vogue.com/article/1928/4/the-coast-of-azure-and-gold, Vogue (magazine), Vogue, 22 August 2023, 22 August 2023,web.archive.org/web/20230822234133/https://archive.vogue.com/article/1928/4/the-coast-of-azure-and-gold, live, By October 1928, she was signing her articles as Solange d’Ayen.WEB, d’Ayen, Solange, 27 October 1928, Scotland, the Happy Shooting Ground,archive.vogue.com/article/1928/10/27/scotland-the-happy-shooting-ground, subscription, Vogue (magazine), Vogue, 44–45, 22 August 2023, 26 February 2023,web.archive.org/web/20230226164432/https://archive.vogue.com/article/1928/10/27/scotland-the-happy-shooting-ground, live, She also wrote for the American Vogue.WEB, d’Ayen, Solange, Paris in Its New Clothes, Vogue (magazine), Vogue, 7 June 1930,archive.vogue.com/article/1930/6/paris-in-its-new-clothes, 64–65, subscription, 22 August 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091532/https://archive.vogue.com/article/1930/6/paris-in-its-new-clothes, live, WEB, d’Ayen, Solange, Just How They Do It, Vogue (magazine), Vogue, 1 July 1932,archive.vogue.com/article/1932/7/just-how-they-do-it, 28–29, subscription, 22 August 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091440/https://archive.vogue.com/article/1932/7/just-how-they-do-it, live, Irish journalist Carmel Snow, who was working for Vogue at that time, said of Solange: “she was the person I most wanted at that time to fashion myself on”. Solange was well-connected in the Paris social circle known as “” and introduced Snow to several members of the Paris elite.In 1935, she helped Vogue editor-in-chief Edna Woolman Chase persuade French painter Christian Bérard – a close friend of hers – to work for the magazine as a fashion illustrator.BOOK, Penelope, Rowlands, A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters, Atria Books, 12 November 2008, 9780743480451, 203,books.google.com/books?id=aD_q00HcIBkC&pg=PT203, Chase snatched up Bérard, luring him away from Bazaar in 1935 with the help of his great friend Solange d’Ayen., 21 October 2023, 21 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231021193751/https://books.google.com/books?id=aD_q00HcIBkC&pg=PT203#v=onepage&q&f=false, live, She worked as a fashion editor of French Vogue until the 1940s. In 1949, she was managing the fashion house of Robert Piguet.NEWS, Deambrosis-Martins, Simone, 3 April 1949, La Elegancia, es, 12, La Opinión,books.google.com/books?id=DldDAAAAIBAJ&pg=PA12, 22 October 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091440/https://books.google.com/books?id=DldDAAAAIBAJ&dq=solange+d%27ayen&pg=PA12#v=onepage&q=solange%20d’ayen&f=false, live, In 1951, she became an editor of magazine.BOOK, Bouhours, Jean-Michel, Man Ray: directeur du mauvais movies, de Haas, Patrick, Centre Georges Pompidou, 1997, 9782858509430, 109–113, fr, Towards the end of her life, she was known as Solange de Labriffe.

Personal life

Solange married Jean Maurice Paul Jules de Noailles, the 6th Duke of Ayen, on 16 June 1919 and was named Duchess of Ayen. They lived at the Château de MaintenonWEB, Maintenon Après les Cottereau Noailles,racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Maintenon, Racines & Histoire, 9, fr, 23 August 2023, 23 August 2023,racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Maintenon," title="web.archive.org/web/20230823032613racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Maintenon,">web.archive.org/web/20230823032613racineshistoire.free.fr/LGN/PDF/Maintenon, live, BOOK, Susan, Ronald, Condé Nast: The Man and His Empire, St. Martin’s Publishing Group, 3 September 2019, 9781250180025, 143, and had two children; a daughter, Geneviève Hélène Anne Marie Yolande de Noailles (1921–1998), and a son, Adrien Maurice Edmond Marie Camille de Noailles (1925–1944), a soldier who died in Rupt-sur-Moselle during World War II at the age of 19.BOOK, Cassan, Maurice, Ayen en Bas-Limousin et les Noailles pendant la Révolution, 1989, R. Dessagne, 978-2-85521-085-8, 252,books.google.com/books?id=oZtGAAAAMAAJ, fr, 22 August 2023, 22 August 2023,web.archive.org/web/20230822213830/https://books.google.com/books?id=oZtGAAAAMAAJ, live, WEB, Dossier individuel de personnel de NOAILLES DE / ADRIEN MAURICE EDMOND MARIE CAMILLE,www.servicehistorique.sga.defense.gouv.fr/ark/790242, 22 August 2023, Minister of the Armed Forces (France), Ministère des Armées {{!, Service historique de la Défense |language=fr |archive-date=22 August 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230822215334www.servicehistorique.sga.defense.gouv.fr/ark/790242 |url-status=live }}She was a close friend of several artists such as French fashion designer Coco Chanel,BOOK, Linda, Simon, Coco Chanel, October 2011, 86–88, Reaktion Books, October 2011, 9781861899651,books.google.com/books?id=ZdiOhGHASEQC&pg=PT86, 22 August 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091440/https://books.google.com/books?id=ZdiOhGHASEQC&dq=solange+d%27ayen&pg=PT86#v=onepage&q=solange%20d’ayen&f=false, live, Swiss fashion designer Robert Piguet,WEB, Colton, Sarah, September 2004, Robert Piguet: As Remembered by An Eighteen Year Old Apprentice Designer, Hubert de Givenchy,sarahcolton.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Piguet.pdf, Beauty Fashion Magazine, 3, 22 October 2023, 6 April 2016,sarahcolton.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Piguet.pdf," title="web.archive.org/web/20160406201753sarahcolton.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Piguet.pdf,">web.archive.org/web/20160406201753sarahcolton.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Piguet.pdf, live, French painter Christian Bérard, and American photographer Lee Miller.BOOK, Carolyn, Burke, Lee Miller: A Life, 6 October 2010, 231, Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group, 6 October 2010, 9780307766632,books.google.com/books?id=PVmJOWev0p8C&pg=PA231, 22 August 2023, 22 August 2023,web.archive.org/web/20230822215017/https://books.google.com/books?id=PVmJOWev0p8C&dq=solange+d%27ayen&pg=PA231, live, WEB, Fleming, Mike Jr., Kate Winslet Joined By Marion Cotillard, Jude Law, Andrea Riseborough & Josh O’Connor For Film On Model-Turned-WWII Photographer Lee Miller,deadline.com/2021/10/kate-winslet-lee-miller-wwii-film-marion-cotillard-jude-law-andrea-riseborough-josh-oconnor-1234859103/, Deadline Hollywood, 22 August 2023, 21 October 2021, 21 October 2021,web.archive.org/web/20211021185235/https://deadline.com/2021/10/kate-winslet-lee-miller-wwii-film-marion-cotillard-jude-law-andrea-riseborough-josh-oconnor-1234859103/, live, Her husband, Jean de Noailles, was a member of the French Resistance during World War II and was arrested by the Gestapo on 22 January 1942, as a result of an anonymous denunciation.WEB, 18 November 1952, Le tribunal militaire de Paris condamne à vingt ans de réclusion une collaboratrice de la Gestapo accusée d’avoir dénoncé le duc d’Ayen, The Paris military court sentences a Gestapo collaborator accused of having denounced the Duke of Ayen to twenty years of imprisonment,www.lemonde.fr/archives/article/1952/11/18/le-tribunal-militaire-de-paris-condamne-a-vingt-ans-de-reclusion-une-collaboratrice-de-la-gestapo-accusee-d-avoir-denonce-le-duc-d-ayen_2000965_1819218.html, Le Monde, fr, limited, 22 August 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091441/https://www.lemonde.fr/archives/article/1952/11/18/le-tribunal-militaire-de-paris-condamne-a-vingt-ans-de-reclusion-une-collaboratrice-de-la-gestapo-accusee-d-avoir-denonce-le-duc-d-ayen_2000965_1819218.html, live, BOOK, Martin, Georges, Histoire et généalogie de la maison de Noailles, 1993, Imprimerie Mathias, fr, He died at the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp on 14 April 1945, a few days before the end of the war. Solange was also arrested by the Nazis in 1942 and sent to the Fresnes Prison, while her family and friends such as Lee Miller were unaware of what had happened to her. Solange was said to be “a shadow of herself” when Miller found her after the war.WEB, Maxwel, Elsa, Elsa Maxwell, 16 January 1945, Innocents Abroad,books.google.com/books?id=05JRAAAAIBAJ&pg=PA17, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, 17, In what category would Mr. Crawford place the Duc d’Ayen, a prisoner in Germany, and his beautiful young wife, Solange, who emerged almost unrecognizable from a Nazi concentration camp?, 21 October 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022092020/https://books.google.com/books?id=05JRAAAAIBAJ&pg=PA17&dq=solange#v=onepage&q=solange&f=false, live, In 1952, the Paris military court sentenced Suzanne Provost, a Gestapo collaborator accused of having denounced Jean de Noailles, to twenty years of imprisonment. In 1954, Solange formally accused SS officer Helmut Knochen of having kidnapped her husband.WEB, Théolleyre, Jean-Marc, 1 October 1954, M. Paul Reyanud a relaté les circonstances de sa déportation et la duchesse d’Ayen a formellement accusé Knochen d’avoir séquestré son mari, Mr. Paul Reyanud recounted the circumstances of his deportation and the Duchess of Ayen formally accused Knochen of having kidnapped her husband,www.lemonde.fr/archives/article/1954/10/01/m-paul-reyanud-a-relate-les-circonstances-de-sa-deportation-et-la-duchesse-d-ayen-a-formellement-accuse-knochen-d-avoir-sequestre-son-mari_2015090_1819218.html, limited, Le Monde, fr, Knochen was sentenced to death by a Parisian military tribunal in 1954, but was later pardoned by President de Gaulle and released in 1962.BOOK, Wistrich, R.S., Who’s Who in Nazi Germany, Taylor & Francis, 2013, 978-1-136-41381-0,books.google.com/books?id=nT-psA9fj_AC&pg=PA65, 152–153, French fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who had met Solange while he was working as an apprentice of Robert Piguet, described her as a “great beauty”, who had “classic taste”, and said that she always wore black because she had lost her husband and son in the war.

Death

Solange died in Paris at the age of 78 on 3 November 1976. She was buried at the Château de Maintenon in France.WEB, Solange de Labriffe,man8rove.com/fr/profile/utd5g02t-solange-de-labriffe, fr, 23 August 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091945/https://man8rove.com/fr/profile/utd5g02t-solange-de-labriffe, live,

In popular culture

In 1939, French composer Francis Poulenc dedicated his song “Fleurs” to Solange.WEB, [Fleurs. FP 101, no 6] Francis Poulenc (1899-1963),data.bnf.fr/fr/14800856/francis_poulenc_fleurs__fp_101__no_6/, Bibliothèque nationale de France, September 1939, 20 October 2023, fr, 25 March 2019,web.archive.org/web/20190325215642/https://data.bnf.fr/fr/14800856/francis_poulenc_fleurs__fp_101__no_6/, live, BOOK, Caroline, Seebohm, The Man who was Vogue: The Life and Times of Condé Nast, Viking Press, 26 May 1982, 9780670453665, 349, Solange d’Ayen, the aristocratic and beautiful fashion editor (to whom Poulenc once dedicated a song), In 2023, Solange was portrayed by French actress Marion Cotillard in the Lee Miller biopic Lee, directed by American filmmaker Ellen Kuras.WEB, PJ, Cresswell, Marion Cotillard shoots first scenes of Lee biopic in Dubrovnik,www.timeout.com/croatia/news/marion-cotillard-shoots-first-scenes-of-lee-miller-biopic-in-dubrovnik-092622, Time Out (magazine), Time Out, 26 September 2022, 22 August 2023, 22 October 2023,web.archive.org/web/20231022091944/https://www.timeout.com/croatia/news/marion-cotillard-shoots-first-scenes-of-lee-miller-biopic-in-dubrovnik-092622, live,

See also

• Duke of Ayen

Further reading

• BOOK, Snow, Carmel, The World of Carmel Snow, Aswell, Mary Louise, Carmel Snow, McGraw Hill Education, McGraw-Hill, 1 January 1962, 547124, 55, 108, 148,
• BOOK, Valentine, Lawford, Horst: His Work and His World, Knopf, 1984, 978-0394521718, 54, 152, 193,
• BOOK, The Lives of Lee Miller, Thames & Hudson, 978-0-03-005833-2, Penrose, Antony, Antony Penrose, 1985,
• BOOK, Marie-France, Pochna, Christian Dior: The Man who Made the World Look New, Arcade Publishing, 1996, 978-1559703406, 107,
• BOOK, Penelope, Rowlands, Penelope Rowlands, A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters, Atria Books, 12 November 2008, 9780743480451,
• BOOK, Carolyn, Burke, Lee Miller: A Life, 6 October 2010, 100, 231, Knopf, 9780375401473,
• BOOK, Linda, Simon, Coco Chanel, Reaktion Books, October 2011, 9781861898593,
• BOOK, Lynn, Hilditch, Lee Miller, Photography, Surrealism and the Second World War: From Vogue to Dachau, Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2018, 9781527500174,
• BOOK, Susan, Ronald, Condé Nast: The Man and His Empire, St. Martin’s Publishing Group, 3 September 2019, 9781250180025,
• BOOK, Lou, Taylor, Marie, McLoughlin, Paris Fashion and World War Two: Global Diffusion and Nazi Control, Bloomsbury Publishing, 9 January 2020, 9781350000261,
• BOOK, Christopher, Othen, The King of Nazi Paris: Henri Lafont and the Gangsters of the French Gestapo,books.google.com/books?id=bS_wDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT82, Biteback Publishing, 14 July 2020, 978-1785906596, 82–83,
• BOOK, Nina-Sophia, Miralles, Glossy: The Inside Story of Vogue, Quercus, 18 March 2021, 9781529402773,books.google.com/books?id=u3bBDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT80,
• BOOK, Justine, Picardie, Miss Dior: A Story of Courage and Couture, Faber and Faber, 7 September 2021, 199, 9780374210359,

References

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